Adventure!

Day 3 = Sept 14

I broke camp early, in the rain, and was able to sneak away without paying.  I would have paid but nobody was there to take my money.  I went into Fredricton and found a good looking prospect for breakfast.  Eggs, ham, baked beans, and raison bread toast.  Yum. 

NB was really pretty.  I entered Nova Scotia  and For 3 glorious hours there was no rain.  I was able to strip the bar end mitts off the bike, wear my summer gloves… life was good.  When I got to Cape Breton, I even had to stop along side some railroad tracks and remove a few layers of clothes.  1 minute farther and I had to stop again- this time at the Cape Breton visitor’s center.  One stop shopping for any CB info.  I chatted with the staff and hit the road again.

I need a down day- my ass needs a break.  I decide tomorrow will be tourist day at Louisbourg Fortress.  There are a couple campgrounds nearby, and a scenic route (Fleur de Lis) that goes there.  It looks like a few hours and I should get there about 6:30.  I missed the first opportunity to get on the scenic route and ended up on a boring 2 lane hwy for about 20 miles, wishing I was on a more local road. 

Finally, I got on the right road the roads and scenery are breathtaking.  I wish I could have taken more pics, but probably did take enough to bore everybody.  Once I was good and committed to the “scenic route”, the rain returned.  It started out as a gentle shower, and steadily ramped up to an angry downpour.  The road is very twisty/curvy/hilly without much sight distance, so I didn’t want to stop on the road to gear up for serious weather.  The shoulders of the road looked mushy, and I could see where other vehicles and bikes had trouble.  Got it - STAY ON THE PAVEMENT.

Eventually I came to an intersection where I felt I could stop without fear of being run over.  I made a quick dash to the woods to empty my bladder, which was on emergency reserve capacity.  On with the rain gloves (Who in the hell designed rain gloves with a liner that gets sticky when wet?????) and forget the warmer gear.  It’s getting late, I have miles to make, and I’m chasing daylight.  I really, really do not want to ride around Cape Breton, in the rain, at night, on black top, after a long day in the saddle, and think about moose. 

The GPS shows a short dirt road that will cut about 20 miles off my route.  Said road looks well maintained (foreshadowing), so zoom- let’s hit the dirt.  After about 1/2k, the road quickly goes to hell.  It’s an unholy mix of rock, dirt, and something the consistency of moose snot.  I press on to the top of the next hill (fairly steep- I was worried about the traction of my Tourance rear tire).  Looking down the back side of the hill, it’s obvious this is NOT GOING TO WORK.  There is some hard surface, covered with the aforementioned mix.  The edges are mostly snot.  I decide to turn around and get thouroughly stuck in snot.  The hill is steep enough that I had to kick a good sized hole in order to put my sidestand down.

After some pulling, pushing, and a bit of power assisted turning, I get the bike firmy planted in a truck rut.  I’m about 140 lbs soaking wet.  A fully loaded Wee, full take of gas- yeah I’m stuck.  I’ll figure something out….   About 2 minutes later help arrived.  A dude that looked like Paul Bunyon came along in his pickup and “helped” me push her around.  “Helped”- I tried to look like I was doing something.  This guy could have carried the Wee out with one hand.  He followed me out to the pavement, made sure I was not going to do anything else stupid, and I was on my way again.  Did I mention it was raining?

Now I’m really hurting for daylight.  30 minutes to go, 15 minutes of light.  Shit.  I crank of the speed as I’m able, can see, whatever.   All I want is a place to park and hopefully a hot meal and shower.  I get to the nearest campground, in Louisbourg.  It’s right in town, another field filled with RV’s.  The people at check in are really friendly and let me know I can stay in the “gazebo” in back of the office to hide from the rain.  It’s a steady torrent.  Sounds good- I’m exhausted and just want to fall over.  They mention there is a playhouse next door and there is a show tonight.  (yawn)  I’m leaving a huge puddle as I chat- my gear has a rain liner, the outer layers are like a big sponge.

Then she mentioned it’s Mark MacIntyre with Jason Kempt and Jennifer Roland.  I’ve heard of Jennifer Roland- high energy Cape Breton fiddle.  My ears perked up.  The show starts in 10 minutes.  I parked the bike, ate a Clif bar on the way to the theater.  Stripped off my soaked gear- the staff insisted that I leave it inside, not out on the covered patio.  The show was awesome.  I ate more than my fair share of oatmeal cakes and tea at intermission.   Tomorrow some chic named Rachel Davis is playing.

I came back to the gazebo to find I was now sharing it with 2 other refugees from the rain.  Their tent is underwater.  The are from Coos Bay, OR, and were also at the show.  The roof leaks, but we were all able to find some dry floor space.  I’m eating oatmeal and drinking tea the gazebo now.  The skies are clear (it’s supposed to rain in a few hours), and my stuff is spread everywhere in hopes of drying out a bit.

I’m off to tour the fortress.